Perciatelli with Pancetta, Tomato and Onion

Perciatelli all’ Amatriciana

This dish is traditionally cooked with guanciale instead of pancetta. Pancetta is the cured and rolled pork belly, while guanciale is the cured pork cheeks, quite delicious but difficult to come by in stores. If you do come across it, buy it and prepare this dish.

Makes 6 servings

One 35-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)

Salt

5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, or to taste

1 medium onion, sliced thin (about 2 cups)

Four 1/4-inch slices pancetta (about 6 ounces), cut into 1 1/2-inch julienne strips (about 1 1/2 cups; see note)

2 whole dried red peperoncino peppers or 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

1 pound perciatelli or bucatini pasta

1 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for passing

Pass the tomatoes and their liquid through a food mill fitted with the fine disc. Set aside.

In a 6-quart pot, bring 4 quarts of salted water to a boil.

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until wilted, about 4 minutes. Stir in the pancetta and cook 2 minutes. Add the peperoncini and the passed tomatoes and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat to a simmer, and season lightly with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened, about 20 minutes. Check the seasoning, adding salt if necessary, remembering that the Pecorino is mildly salty.

Meanwhile, stir the perciatelli into the boiling water and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente – tender but firm – about 12 minutes.

Reserve about 1 cup of the pasta cooking water and drain the pasta in a colander. Return the pasta to the pot and place over low heat. Add all but about 1 cup of the sauce and the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil– or olive oil to taste. Stir until the pasta is coated. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the grated cheese and transfer to a large, heated serving bowl. Spoon the remaining sauce over the top.

Note: To cut the pancetta into julienne strips, first unroll each slice, then cut the long strip crosswise into 1 1/2-inch pieces. Cut the strips lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips.